History and heritage
The youngest French department, Tarn-et-Garonne was created with a haphazard pencil stroke by Napoleon. A lucky stroke, for here every aspect of life is the result of a former way of life preserved yet updated, well rooted in the traditions of the south-west of France. From history to geography, touching upon artists (such as Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres or Marcel Lenoir), architecture or gastronomy, everything here is an occasion to be enriched, moved or amazed
History: a county created in the heart of the south-west
The legend has it that, in order to define the borders of Tarn-et-Garonne, Napoléon 1st, while visiting Montauban, placed his hand on a map of France and drew round it, thus creating the youngest French department on the 21st November 1808, 18 years after all the others.
In fact, since 1790 Montauban had been merely a "sous-préfecture" of the Lot, a situation which greatly displeased the noblemen of Montauban. The Emperor gave them a history and a legend, a river, the Garonne, its tributary, the Tarn and a parchwork of territory taken from neighbouring departments: Haute-Garonne, Gers, Aveyron, Lot and Lot-et-Garonne.
Geography: incorporating parts of Quercy, Gascogne and Languedoc...
The county of Tarn-and-Garonne is in itself an amalgam of the Midi-Pyrénées region to which it belongs, comprising parts of Quercy, Gascogne, Languedoc, Albigeois, Rouergue.
To the east and in the north are the plains, between the rivers Tarn and Garonne and also the Aveyron valley, enclosed by the "cause", a limestone plateau also to be found in the neighbouring Lot and Aveyron. To the west and south are the sunny hillsides (Quercy) and the fruit bearing plains typical of the Gers and Lot-et-Garonne.
It is in fact a composite of regions, landscapes, thoroughfares and rivers that the Emperor created only several miles from Toulouse..
Famous residents
Tarn-et-Garonne has the art of inspiring artists: wherever one goes.. the countryside, villages or towns.. one is plunged into a world peopled by celebrities from Tarn-and- Garonne like Ingres, Bourdelle, Marcel Lenoir and Olympe de Gouges ; their sources of inspiration came from the light and the landscapes of their home county as well as the surrounding areas of Quercy, Gascogne, Languedoc, Albigeois and the Rouergue.
The painter Jean-Auguste Dominique Ingres
The town of Montauban is the birthplace of one of the greatest 19th century French painters: Jean-Auguste Dominique Ingres (1780-1867).He belonged to the Romantic movement (led by Eugène Delacroix et Théodore Géricault) and served as a mentor for Picasso who, his whole life long, studied, interpreted and even copied his work to the extent of being called " true Mister Ingres " by Jean Cocteau and of having what is known as his "Ingres period" (1915-1925).
In the centre of Montauban, a magnificent 17th century Episcopal or Bishop?s palace is home to the Ingres Museum with a collection of paintings and 4000 drawings by the illustrious Montalbanais: six rooms on the first floor are devoted to his early works revealing the influence of Raphaël and Classical art, but also works done in David's studio as well as at the Medici villa where he was a boarder and later director.
The painter and draughtsman Marcel Lenoir
Marcel Lenoir, born in Montauban in 1872 died in 1931 in Montricoux where a museum is dedicated solely to him. His work belongs to a pivotal period in Art history: the end of the 19th century and symbolism and the beginning of the 20th. He was a spellbinding character, fiercely independent who kept company in Paris with the likes of Modigliani, Fernand Leger, Bourdelle and Picasso.
Alberto Giacometti said of him: "For me, he was the greatest of his time" he had a way of painting using faceted surfaces, his very own style. He made a tremendous impression on me.»
The sculptor Antoine Bourdelle
Another Montauban celebrity is the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle (1861-1929) who worked alongside Rodin for more than 15 years. The Ingres museum rends him homage by housing several pieces of his including "Heracles archer" and the famous "Kiss". But one can also admire more than 70 of his works during strolls through the centre of Montauban: "The death of the last centaur" (bronze, 1914), "Sapho" (bronze, 1887-1925)
Olympe de Gouges, woman politician
Modern feminisim drew on the work of one of the most outstanding characters in Tarn-et-Garonne: Olympes de Gouges (1748-1793) for its roots. This woman of letters, later politician and polemicist is best known for her committed plays, her views against slavery and pro-divorce. She was behind great democratic projects such as the Declaration of the rights of women in 1791.
Nearer to our times, numerous well-known people hail from the department:
André Téchiné, born 13th March 1943 in Valence d'Agen, is a scriptwriter, actor and film director (Hôtel des Amériques, Ma saison préféré),
Pierre Perret, born 9th July 1934 in Castelsarrasin, is an author-composer-performer famous for his mastery of the subtleties of the French language and slang, learnt by listening to customers in the Café du Pont owned by his parents.
Philippe Labro, born in Montauban 27 th August 1936 is a writer, journalist and director as well as a songwriter.
Typical architecture: "castelnaux" and bastides
The middle ages made their mark on the urban landscape to such an extent that to stroll through any of the charming villages is to stroll through history in an open air museum.
"Castelnaux" are villages founded in the middle ages (11th and 12th centuries) nestling the population around a castle. Verdun-sur-Garonne, Caylus and Montpezat-de-Quercy are typical examples. There are no more than a hundred or so "castelnaux" remaining in France today.
"Bastides" (appearing around 1235) are "new towns" built around a central market place and usually a hall. About forty still exist in the department, or county, extending between Larrazet (around 1254) and Réalville (around 1310), passing via Nègrepelisse, Valence d'Agen, Castelsagrat, Garganvillar orLafrançaise.
From the road, many mills and dovecots of varied design may be seen forming characteristic silhouettes in the Tarn and Garonne landscape.
Local produce
Tarn-and-Garonne, the market garden country
The department, with its micro climate and rich soil, produces 80% of the fruit in the Midi-Pyrénées, 420 000 tons to be exact.
Chasselas de Moissac AOC, with its light golden fruit, is one of the bestselling grapes.
Reine-Claude Label Rouge is a unique variety of plum from the south-west with a firm, juicy, sun-drenched texture. The plum tree is in fact the oldest plant species cultivated for marketing.
Tarn-et-Garonne also produces:
Quercy melons with their exceptional aroma and taste,
Moissac cherries,food fit for a king; local restaurant chefs know how to do them credit!
Hazelnuts,
Apples,
Lomagne chestnuts,
Laguépie chestnuts.
In other words, a variety of fruit which is worthy of the south-west. To find them, visit the local markets, the most renowned being:
Caussade: weekly on Monday mornings,
Montauban: weekly on Saturday mornings,
Valence d'Agen: weekly on Tuesday mornings,
Moissac: fruit market, in season,
Laguépie: chestnut market, in season.
Moissac, the "fruit capital"
Moissac became, towards the end of the 19th century, the prosperous "cherry picker" town and is today the largest fruit producing centre in the area.
A real fruit capital, on a regional as well as national level, the municipality organises the prestigous biennial "fruit festiva" in September.
Classed A.O.C since the 1950s, the Chasselas doré de Moissac is cultivated exclusively on the hillside slopes of the Bas Quercy.
www.chasselas-de-moissac.com
The heart of "confit" production: duck & goose preserved in their own fat
Elaborés à base d'oie ou de canard élevés dans la tradition et gavés au maïs entier, les foies gras, les confits, les magrets et autres spécialités du département sont un véritable plaisir pour le palais.
Livestock markets take place in winter from November to March in:
Beaumont-de-Lomagne,
Castelsarrasin,
Caussade,
Montauban,
Monclar de Quercy,
Valence-d?Agen.
Aids to culinary delights white garlic, truffles and saffron.
The culinary arts of Tarn-and-Garonne would be lost without the white garlic grown in the Lomagne region. No less than 550 growers, that is one out of every two farmers, produce this famous garlic.
The county is also renowned for:
truffles, a fungus or mushroom with a pungent yet delicate aroma which chose the Quercy for its home, the Vaïssac boletus ("cèpe") with its unrivalled flavour,
saffron, a refined spice which has only started to be cultivated again since 1998 and which was brought to the Quercy in the 13th century by Saracen slaves from Spain and then grown in the area around Montauban, Caussade and Saint-Antonin Noble Val.
Markets not to be missed during the season:
Beaumont-de-Lomagne : garlic,
Vaïssac : cèpes (boletus mushrooms),
Caussade: truffles and saffron Monday mornings.
6 wine "appellations"
Wines to seduce the palate and accompany the culinary wonders of Tarn-and-Garonne!
Deep in the south-west with a range of grape varieties, the department numbers 6 wine types or "appellations".... a true palette of tastes to go with the local gastronomic delights:
A.O.V.D.Q.S. Coteaux du Quercy,
Vin de Pays des Coteaux et Terrasses de Montauban,
A.O.V.D.Q.S. Saint-Sardos,
A.O.V.D.Q.S. Lavilledieu,
A.O.V.D.Q.S. Côtes du Brulhois,
Les vins des Côtes du Frontonnais, classed A.O.C.
Gastronomy
Tarn-et-Garonne is home to a unique culinary heritage. The "fruit festival", the Chasselas grape festival, at Moissac, the "white garlic fair" at Beaumont-de-Lomagne, the educational farms and typical local markets are as much for cookery fans and gourmets as for the simply curious because here you can find something to everyone?s taste!
Gastronomic excursions
The "Taste Tour" includes visits to numerous farms, tastings on site, meeting the producers at the same time as admiring the many tourist attractions and monuments dotted around the landscape.
Many owners give a warm welcome to visitors in their farm inns ("fermes-auberges"). fermes-auberges.
Educational farm visits
Mixing pleasure and learning as a family, five places to visit:
Peyret farm at Gensac,
Saint-Martin farm at Labarthe,
Gaziana vineyard at Labastide du Temple,
La Tome du Ramier,
Le Verger de Varennes.
A showcase for the culinary arts
A reflexion of the quality of life here, the Centre of culinary arts is to be found in the abbey at Belleperche (owned by the Conseil Général since 1983). It has to be said that the abbey had already become a hotel in the 18th century. Traces of this history are documented and evident in the restored building and decor. And every summer one can sample dishes from the olden days with musical accompaniment.
Local markets, food fairs and "Bistros de Pays"
Tarn-and-Garonne is equally renowned for its many local markets, welcoming and with top quality produce, showcases for the area where one can hear the singsong of the local accent and also Occitan. Four markets among the most famous:
Caussade: weekly market on Mondays
Montauban: weekly market on Saturdays,
Valence-d'Agen: weekly market on Tuesdays,
Saint-Antonin Noble Val: weekly market on Sunday mornings, night market in July and August plus an organic foodfair in July.
Markets not to be missed during the season:
Beaumont-de-Lomagne : garlic,
Caussade: truffles and saffron, Monday morning market,
Laguépie : chestnuts
Moissac : fruit
Vaïssac : cèpes
Livestock markets take place in winter from November to March in:
Beaumont-de-Lomagne,
Castelsarrasin,
Caussade,
Montauban,
Monclar de Quercy,
Valence-d?Agen.
Gastronomy and the exceptional produce of the region are also celebrated all year round during numerous foodfairs. Amongst the most renowned are:
the huge garlic festival at Beaumont-de-Lomagne (10,000 visitors),
the Coteaux du Quercy wine festival in Castelnau-Montratier in August,
the Chasselas grape fair in September at Moissac.
And finally, the "Bistros de Pays" (an official classification) are establishments "unlike any others": bistros, bar-brasseries, inns or "auberges" they each have a guaranteed local atmosphere.
Open all year round, they provide essential services in small rural communities and promote local produce:
"Le Café de l'Union" Montpezat de Quercy,
"L'Auberge du Pêcheur" Lexos,
"Le Rendez-vous" Verfeil sur Seye,
"Le Vieux Fût" Monclar de Quercy,
"Les Bastides" Bruniquel,
"Les Marronniers" Puylaroque.
Several reputed confectionery specialties:
Le Montauriol: a cherry and Armagnac chocolate
Le Pavé du Quercy: a cake with nuts, cherries and dried fruit
Le Jacquou: a cake with nuts, honey, sultanas and prunes
La bûche " La Verger" (swissroll style)
La croustade aux pommes (apple tart)
Les Boulets de Montauban (chocolate covered hazelnuts known as "canonballs" as a reminder of Louis XIII's attack on Montauban during the Wars of Religion)
Le Grain doré de Moissac: Chasselas variety known as the golden grape
Les pruneaux (prunes).
The restaurants of Tarn and Garonne and especially the renowned restaurant "Table of the Capuchins"
The culinary heritage of Tarn-et-Garonne, gourmet and gourmand, offers a multitude of taste combinations: golden poultry basted in a mushroom reduction, the delicacy of foies gras rendered sublime by the addition of truffles, "croustades" and "pastis" (an apple pie using ultrafine pastry similar to filo) are but several examples.
To prepare these specialities in the style they merit, to combine the best of the past whilst remaining creative, sixteen restaurateurs have formed a group l'Association des Restaurateurs de Tarn-et-Garonne.
These scrupulous professionnals insist on quality and choice of produce at the service of their expertise in the kitchen.
The renowned restaurant "Table of the Capuchins"
The restaurant "Table of the Capuchins" in the Crown Plaza hotel in Montauban has been awarded its first star by the prestigious Michelin Guide. This has crowned with success the talent and efforts of the chef Hervé Sauton, who studied under Roland Mazère and Bernard Loiseau.