History
In the year 950 or 951 (each date has its fervent supporters) Godescalc, Bishop of Puy-en-Velay, went on pilgrimage to Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle. He was the first non Spanish pilgrim to do so and he was accompanied by a whole troop of camp-followers. In addition to the Bishop and his clergymen were troubadours, pages, barons and noblemen of office.These important people were protected by numerous soldiers, archers and lancers.
Godescalc's actual itinerary is unknown but the tradition of proceeding from Puy via Conques and Moissac, the only stop-overs mentioned by the chroniclers, started with him.
Stop-overs
Three towns and villages have been designated «Stop-overs on the Pilgrims' way of St Jacques de Compostelle" where information centres and lodging suited to their needs are available for the pilgrims: Lauzerte, Moissac and Auvillar.
Lauzerte
Ever since the12 th century, the bastide of Lauzerte, one of the "most beautiful villages of France", has dominated the Cahors-Moissac route and the valleys of Barguelonne and Lendou, two agricultural oases whose hillsides of vines and orchards make giant verdant notches in the dazzling white limestone rocks of the Quercy.
In the old town one can see 13 th century houses with wooden facades and double-arched windows, Renaissance buildings with mullioned windows as well as dwellings which form the ramparts. The hospice chapel, reconstructed around 1830, housed pilgrims and beggars on the pilgrims' way. The Carmelite church takes its name from the religious order which founded a convent here in the 14 th century. The church of Saint-Barthélemy in the upper part of town has facades dating from the 14 th and 19th centuries. It possesses an altarpiece in gilded wood consecrated to the Virgin Mary which is a masterpiece of Baroque art.
The Capuchin monastery, for mendicant monks, was founded in the 12th century and was occupied by the Capuchins until 1789. .
Moissac
Sited in the alluvial plains of the Tarn, the town is one of the main milestones on the Compostelle way. It is also one of the rare towns on the via Podiensis where one finds a mention of a guild or brotherhood of Saint-Jacques. Appearing in 1523, its function was to celebrate St Jacques with a mass, a procession and a banquet, as well as helping with the funerals of dead colleagues.
An international accommodation centre receives more than 5000 pilgrims per year at Carmel, an historic building totally restored overlooking the town and run by the Alpine Club.
There are individual rooms or dormitories available, as well as sitting rooms, conference rooms, utility room and a communal kitchen at reasonable rates.
The abbey church and cloister of Saint Pierre are classed as a jewel of Romanesque art World Heritage site by UNESCO.
Not forgetting the golden Chasselas grapes for which Moissac is famous with the highest production in France of dessert grapes (more than 18,000 tons). The grapes are classified AOC (l'appellation d'origine contrôlée)..
After Moissac, the route follows the canal towpaths beside the Garonne enabling pilgrims and ramblers to enjoy the beautiful features of the confluence of the Tarn and the Garonne rivers.
Auvillar
A Gallo-Roman town situated on a rocky spur and a strategic site for all who have conquered it through the centuries, Auvillar was an important inland river port until the 19 th century and is classed as one of "most beautiful villages of France".
It possesses a curious round 19 th century market hall with grain measures hollowed out in the stones and it sits well in the triangular square where pebbles from the Garonne, limestone and brick form a harmonious architectural mix.
The clock tower, built in the time of Louis XIV in brick and stone marks the entry to the old town. The doors and windows are arched and each story is decorated with elaborate brick mouldings.
The church of Saint-Pierre is an ancient Benedictine priory dating from the 12 th and 14 th centuries. It was restored during the 17 th and 19 th centuries.
Beyond Auvillar, one can see the spread of cereal crops in the Gers.
Practical information
There are of course, "real" pilgrims on the Saint-Jacques route. The via Podiensis takes on average a little longer than 60 days to complete, doing about 20 kilometres per day. But there?s nothing to stop you just going for a stroll for a few hours, if only for the beautiful landscapes and the breathtaking sensation of following in the footsteps of the thousands of people who have trod this path for a thousand years.
The hiking trail « chemin de Grande Randonnée » (GR65) has red and white markers along the way but, as the original route is unknown, the itinerary is up to the individual. So along the route there are many diversions and forks, all created due to the curiosity and explorative nature of the ramblers. Professionals and enlightened amateurs consider the GR65 as one of the best hiking trails in France.
For further information:
Websites:
http://www.via-podiensis.com/accueil.php
http://www.gr-infos.com/gr65d.htm (GR65 De Moissac (Tarn et Garonne) à Aire sur l'Adour (Landes))
http://www.gites-refuges.com/
Topographical guide: « Les gorges de l'Aveyron » by the FFRP (French federation of ramblers).